Be Gentle with Pot Nuts!

The only preamp failure customers (2) have experienced were broken pot shafts from over-tightening their Pot Nut on CF2 pots. I can't make the pots stronger, but be aware that Pot Nuts are VERY powerful, with a lot more threads than a tiny ring nut, and they will pull the shaft right off the pot if you crank them hard. It only takes a light snugging up to hold the pot very securely from rotating or coming loose, and light pressure is less likely to damage the finish of your bass.

POWER

I don't supply or re-sell parts like jacks and battery boxes. You will need to provide the power to the preamp, at least by using a 9V battery and clip in the control cavity, and wiring the battery minus to the jack's "ring" terminal, and the preamp V- wire to the jack's "sleeve" terminal. There are lots of resources online for setting that up. I recommend using lithium batteries, as they will provide much longer life and more headroom over most of the battery life. I personally use these nifty Keystone AA waterproof battery boxes with four 1/2-AA lithium cells for a 14V supply with about five times the life of a 9V alkaline. They are really tough and look nice look in the bass. You can get them from Mouser, part No. 534-2438. 

MOUNTING

A good way to mount the preamp components is with 3M Command refills (a package with plenty of strips is about $5). It holds well and is easy to remove cleanly. I don't recommend trying to reuse it though, it doesn't stick well the second time. In these examples the filter boards are stuck to the frequency pots.

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The green connectors and red capacitors on the PS and PD preamps are flush with the board edge so that you can use them to stick the preamp to various surfaces. Don't be afraid to mount it this way, they are quite robust.